Gadling

The long wait is finally over for the grand reopening of Oxford's Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology.

After being partially or completely closed for the past three years, the museum's vast collection is finally open to the public again, with twice the exhibition space it once had.

The Ashmolean is the oldest public museum in the world, having opened in 1683, and while there have been a lot of changes over the years, none have been as big as this £61 million ($101 million) project. The expansion includes four temporary exhibition galleries so the Ashmolean can host blockbuster traveling shows, something it couldn't do with its previous space.

The permanent collection has gone through some major changes too. More of it is on display now, of course, but also the style of the displays has been revamped with the new idea of Crossing Cultures Crossing Time, which allows visitors to see how civilizations developed as parts of an interrelated world culture. This is an an improvement over the old-style way of displaying civilizations as separate entities when in reality they influenced one another on many levels. It also echoes the global perspective that Oxford's other world-class museum, the Pitt-Rivers, brings to its own collection.

The museum is best known for its collections of Anglo-Saxon, predynastic Egyptian, Asian, and Renaissance art and artifacts, but has a good sampling of treasures from just about every period and culture, everything from crocodile mummies to medieval beer mugs. Museum junkies will not want to miss the new Ashmolean.

If the pictures in the gallery below aren't enough for you, check out this collection of photos by yours truly and Mrs. yours truly.

Gallery: Treasures of the new Ashmolean

Anyone following the travel news knows the airlines are in trouble. Well, it appears some airlines may be in more trouble than expected. British Airways announced that in the first half of its 2009 financial year it suffered a loss of £292 million ($485 million). In the same period in 2008 it made a profit of £52 million ($86 million).

This was more than a 13% loss of total revenue, with the company earning £4.1 billion ($6.8 billion) in the first half rather than the £4.75 billion ($7.9 billion) it earned in the same period in 2008. In a cost-saving measure, the company has announced it will cut 4,900 jobs by March 2010 and is considering a two-year pay freeze and a reduction of cabin crew from 15 crew members to 14 for long-haul flights.

What this flurry of numbers means to travelers like you and me is that there might be a strike at British Airways in December, just in time for the holiday season. Unite, the union for BA workers, is against the airline's cost-saving measures and is asking its members if they want to go on strike. The strike vote has been put off for some time as the union negotiated with the airline, and the result of the vote won't be known until December 14. Tune in here at Gadling for updates on this story.

Ghana is not a big tourism magnet. Unlike other African countries that offer wild safaris and impressive archaeological remains, this West African nation has relatively few attractions to offer international visitors. But that's changing under a new plan to promote health tourism.

As the name implies, health tourism involves more than recharging your batteries on some serene beach. It's a chance to get medical treatment while getting away from it all. One place to do that in Ghana is the Holy Trinity Spa & Health Farm. Set along the Volta River, it's a cross between a resort hotel, ranch, and hospital, where you can take a dip in the pool, ride horses across African countryside, and have a physiotherapy session all in one day.

Their honeymoon packages are reasonably priced by Western standards and offer the usual things like candlelit dinners and sports activities along with treatments such as facials, manicures, and massages. Other treatments include some rather mysterious-sounding procedures such as the "Super Ozone Hydro Bath" and the "Detoxifying Infra Red Sauna." If you want to get a bit more serious about your health and well-being, the spa offers dental and medical care as well as cosmetic surgery. Many of the guests are from African nations looking for medical procedures they can't get at home. Most of the staff were trained in Western medical schools.

If getting a face lift is not your idea of a vacation, Ghana does offer some interesting sights, although it can't compete with heavy hitters such as Kenya and Egypt. The Mole National Park offers safaris and elephants and the Wli Falls offer stunning views of waterfalls through thick jungle. There's also the intrinsic interest of being in a vibrant part of Africa with a rich history and culture, and the added advantage that English is the official language, so you'll be able to say "no liposuction, please, just a massage."

Gallery: Gorgeous Ghana

A play in Glasgow, Scotland, has sparked an angry protest by local Christians. Jesus Queen of Heaven depicts Jesus as a transsexual woman and is part of the Glasgay! Festival celebrating lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgendered culture.

The festival, which runs through November 8, features plays, music, dance, comedy, and many other events and has drawn artists from around the world. The annual festival has been held since 1993, attracts more than 20,000 visitors, and receives partial funding from national and municipal arts councils.

While gay arts festivals and the inevitable protests against them are nothing new, Jesus Queen of Heaven has drawn special ire. The play, written and performed by leading transgendered artist Jo Clifford, looks at her personal path to faith as a transgendered person.

The description of the play begins, "Jesus is a transsexual woman. And it is now she walks the earth. This is a play with music that presents her sayings, her miracles, and her testimony. And she does not condemn the gays or the queers or the trans women or the trans men, and no, not the straight women nor the straight men neither. Because she is the Daughter of God, most certainly, and almost as certainly the son also. And God's child condemns nobody. She can only love..."

About 300 Christians, on the other hand, felt differently. They held a candlelight vigil outside the Tron Theatre last night, holding signs protesting the use of public funds for the festival and Clifford's depiction of Jesus. One read "God: My Son Is Not A Pervert." It is not clear if the sign was written by the protester or was a direct quote from the Almighty.

If November sounds like a bad time to go to Scotland, there's always Pride Scotia in June, a ten-day national LGBT event that culminates in a massive parade in Edinburgh. If you really want make sure you'll be partying in the sun, head south to Madrid, where the Orgullo ("Pride") festival is held in the toasty months of late June and early July.

Visitors to the Library of Congress in Washington, D.C., have a rare opportunity to see the first map that used the name "America" for the New World.

The Library has the only surviving copy of the famous Waldseemüller map, created in 1507 by Martin Waldseemüller, a German cartographer living in France. The map was a major departure from earlier maps in that it relied less on the received wisdom of Classical geographers like Ptolemy and more on reports by the many explorers of the time.

Waldseemüller studied reports by Christopher Columbus and Amerigo Vespucci and decided Columbus was wrong in thinking he had reached India. Waldseemüller favored Vespucci's theory that the lands they were exploring on the other side of the Atlantic were actually part of a previously unknown continent. Waldseemüller rewarded Vespucci by naming the continent after him. America is the feminized Latin form of Vespucci's first name. All other continents had Latin feminine names, so it fit.

The map is not only correct about the New World, but also portrays other parts of the globe far more accurately than other maps of the time. It's a fine work of art too, with detailed depictions of terrain and portraits of Ptolemy and Vespucci.

Trust the British Museum to have two completely different but totally cool special exhibitions at the same time.

There's still time to catch Moctezuma: Aztec Ruler, a dazzling collection of art from one of Mesoamerica's greatest civilizations. It focuses on the reign of Moctezuma II (1502-1520), who died at the hands of the Spanish conquistadores. He ruled over a large, complex civilization from his capital at Tenochtitlan, now Mexico City. While generally known for their bloodthirstiness, the Mexica, as they called themselves, were accomplished architects, administrators, and artists, creating vast cities and delicate carvings. This show closes January 24, and it's advisable to book tickets well in advance.

Another interesting show is just starting. Manga: Professor Munakata's Museum Adventure showcases a series of Japanese manga cartoons featuring leading manga artist Hoshino Yukinobu's most popular character exploring the British Museum, along with other adventures by the professor. There will also be a special "manga coffee shop" area where visitors can sit and leaf through a selection of manga books. The show runs from November 5 to January 3.

So if you're passing through London make some time for the British Museum. There's plenty more than just mummies, although those are amazing too.

Gallery: Moctezuma and Manga

Pubs are a cornerstone of English life. Most English people go to them and many are regulars at their "local." Because of this, pubs are a great way to meet and learn about the English. Even if you don't drink, go ahead and order a juice and soak up the atmosphere. I've been to pubs in London and Oxford that are four hundred years old! Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese in London and The Turf in Oxford are two of my favorites.

While much has been written about English reserve, this doesn't seem to apply to pubs. Generally people seated or standing at the bar are open to conversation with strangers, in fact they may be seeking it, while those tucked away in a corner table either alone or in groups aren't looking to make new friends.

Pubs have their own rules and etiquette. There are no queues, unlike everywhere else in England, but the barmen are adept at remembering who's first. When you walk in, catch the barman's eye and he or she will be with you shortly. When ordering, don't forget to say "please." Politeness is de rigueur in all aspects of English society, but to barmen especially. If the folks behind the counter aren't swamped, feel free to ask for advice about what beer you should try. I highly recommend the rich, flavorful real ales.

Tipping is not required but is appreciated, and one nice tradition is tipping your barman with a drink. Once you've been served and given the amount, you can ask, "And one for yourself?" at which point he or she will add on a pint or half pint (usually a half) to your bill. If they're busy they might not get to your drink immediately, but once they do they'll be sure to thank you again. If they've been given too many pints already, or have a stern manager, they might politely refuse. Don't take it personally, they may work at a pub but they're still required to be sober!

The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York announced this week that it will return a fragment of Egyptian sculpture to its homeland. Unlike the bust of Nefertiti or the recently returned frescoes that the Louvre gave up, the Egyptians weren't calling for its return for months or years. In fact, the Met bought the item from a collector with the specific intent of repatriating it.

The move is being seen as an olive branch offered by the Met's new director Thomas Campbell, and another victory for Egyptian head of the Supreme Council of Antiquities Zahi Hawass, who's been getting tough with museums who own stolen Egyptian artifacts.

The artifact is a fragment of a naos, a shrine in the holy of holies of an Egyptian temple. It was dedicated to the 12th dynasty pharaoh Amenemhat I, who ruled from 1991 to 1962 BC, and was taken from a temple at Karnak, shown here.

History and art buffs face huge temptation when they enter an antiquities shop. Beautiful works of art and evocative everyday items from ancient civilizations are available for purchase, but this history and art buff has always resisted temptation. Much of what you see is either fake or stolen (witness the large numbers of Iraqi and Afghani artifacts on sale these past few years) and purchasing them encourages the destruction of irreplaceable archaeological sites by artifact hunters.

Once in Palmyra, Syria, a guy tried to sell me some "Roman" coins made of aluminum! Unfortunately the fakes are not always so easy to detect, as there's a major worldwide industry making new things look old. Even if they are real artifacts, there's a good chance they were stolen sometime in the past.

So congratulations to the Met and Dr. Hawass for a job well done. It's a shame the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities is such a mess, but Dr. Hawass is working on fixing that too.

Photo courtesy of mikescrivener from the Gadling Flickr pool. Check out his really cool series from Egypt here.

A trip to the pub is a quintessentially British experience, and if you're a beer snob like me, you'll insist on drinking real ale. The term "real ale" is reserved for beer that's brewed using traditional ingredients and secondary fermentation.

"Traditional ingredients" means there are no artificial clarificants, preservatives, or other additives. "Secondary fermentation" means the yeast is still alive in the cask, so that fermentation continues, providing a fuller, fresher taste. Don't worry about getting the microscopic little guys in your glass, because the yeast settles to the bottom and never comes out of the tap. Because they're still fermenting in the cask, such beers are often called "cask conditioned" or simply "cask" ales.

The British take their beer so seriously that they have a full-time lobbying organization to ensure real ales don't disappear under the onslaught of tasteless lagers. The Campaign for Real Ale is a national organization that promotes the brewing, selling, and drinking of real ales. They support traditional pubs too, on the basis that they're an important aspect of British culture and need to be preserved in the days of theme pubs, big chains, and plasma screen televisions.

One of CAMRA's campaigns is for an honest pour. A pint glass is only a full pint if the contents come to the bottom of the lip. While this makes it a little hard to carry back to the table without sloshing it on the ground, you will be getting what you paid for. Some people take a sip before leaving the bar, but a real Englishman can carry a three or four pints at the same time through a crowded pub without spilling a drop. Legally, up to 5 percent of the glass can be head, so don't threaten to sue if you see a bit of white at the top.

CAMRA sponsors real ale festivals across the U.K. These can be a great way to sample lots of different styles. Their website has an up-to-date calendar.

While constant vigilance is the price of good drinking, traditional brewing is actually enjoying a heyday. There are more than 600 breweries in the U.K. brewing an estimated 2,500 ales. Many of these are small, local operations that only distribute their product to a few nearby pubs as a guest ale. Others have national distribution.

Another important organization is Cask Marque, a body that reviews how pubs serve their cask ales, rating them on variety, serving temperature, and overall quality. Those that get high marks are awarded a Cask Marque sticker on their window, shown here. You can rest assured that within there are quality ales served the proper way.

If you're headed to England, Scotland, or Wales, the folks over at Real Ale Pubs have done your homework for you and have made an extensive list of pubs serving a variety of real ales. If the article I did on gastropubs whet your appetite, then check out the site Dining Pubs, which lists not only gastropubs, but pubs that serve more traditional yet still excellent fare.

Neighbors of Domain Farm, a recently opened naturist Bed and Breakfast in Staffordshire, England, are complaining about seeing more than they want to of the guests.

The B&B is a converted farm and features a sun deck, hot tub, and barbeque area, and while it's set in a rural landscape, it is within sight of other homes. This brings it into the ongoing controversy, not limited to naturism, of where to draw the line between individual liberty and consideration of others. The owners are busy planting trees and shrubs around the property, but their efforts aren't quick enough for the locals.

Despite the weather, naturism or nudism is quite popular in the UK. British Naturism, the official naturist organization, reports a membership of more than 16,000. There are numerous clothing-optional beaches in places like Brighton, and naturists are encouraged by the fact that there is no law explicitly banning public nudity, only indecent exposure. What this breaks down to in reality is that if you bare all in front of Buckingham Palace, you'll be hauled away. If you hike in the nude, you'll probably be fine. In fact, British naturists say nude hiking is quite popular, although I've never seen any on my hikes.

I have, however, seen nude hikers at Seven Falls in the Catalina Mountains near Tucson, Arizona, where nudity is clearly not legal. The falls are several miles up a rugged canyon far away from public view, so the cops don't bother doing anything about it. What with all the car thefts and meth labs in the city, they have better things to do.

So if you like to get your kit off, as the English say, don't dismiss the UK as a travel destination. The Naturist UK Fact File has tons of information. It may get cold and rainy, but at least you won't have to deal with the desert sun and cacti like those Arizona naturists!